Vine and Dine
From subsistence farming to a successful vineyard in three generations. Herdade do Seromenho is the family story of how one man's dream to leave a farm to his grandchildren has led to an award-winning wine.
After spending a very enjoyable evening at a friend's birthday party in the cosy dining room of the vineyard nestled in the beautiful countryside behind the Monte Piscarreta ridge in Lagos, I set out to find more about the history of our gracious hostess Paula Seromenho.
Paula´s grandfather, Francisco Bravo Seromenho bought the property in Ferrel in 1974 after the revolution when there were new opportunities to buy land. He grew oranges, lemons, plums and kept cattle at a subsistence level. Paula´s Father, José Inacio de Sintra Seromenho, was born in the in the farmhouse that was situated over the cowshed.
Francisco later decided that the farm did not offer a future and so took José and his family to live in Lisbon, where he made lamp shades and kept the farm as a weekend retreat. José grew up and became a hotel manager in Albufeira and had four children and Francisco dreamed of one day leaving one part of the farm to each grandchild.
Now that dream is a reality. Today you can see rows of vines, breached intermittently with dusty tracks, stretching across the gently undulating land which gradually rises up the ridge which separates this agricultural land from the coast to the south and to the North is framed by the dramatic backdrop of Monchique.
In 2001 José bought some more land and developed his farm-house from a former cow shed and his children inherited one-quarter of their grandfather´s original farm. José Seromenho and Vítor Manuel Seromenho – father and son – decided to work together. They tested the quality of the clay-limestone soil and were told that it was best suited to vines and Alfarroba trees.
In 2002 a 60-hectare vineyard was established through the Vitis programme, a national support programme for the Portuguese wine sector. The remaining ten hectares were put aside for growing the Carob fruit, widely cultivated because the naturally sweet pod exempts the use of sugar in the manufacture of sweets making it a good alternative to cocoa.
Paula and Vitor built houses on their land, each situated on a different corner of the farm, the other two brothers live in Lagos. The Agricultural Company was founded in 2003 and the vines produced the first grapes in 2006, which have a distinctive taste as they are flavoured by the smell of the ocean. The whole family including José´s seven grandchildren, pick the grapes every September engaging the help of friends and also hiring pickers. After they are cleaned the grapes are sent to a plant in Lagoa to be made into wine.
The vineyard is the second largest in the Algarve, behind Cliff Richard´s Vida Nova and the family dream of being able to obtain the license and buy the equipment to make the wine on the farm. They are lucky to have a good water supply from a number of wells and use sulfur to kill bugs rather than using pesticides.
The decision came in 2006 to produce the red, white and rosé Vinho Regional Algarve wines, a total of approximately 12,000 bottles. The project to produce their own wines continued in 2007 and the same year 2,500 bottles of the new DOC Lagos Reserva 2007 were produced, which won the Silver Medal in the “Best Wines of the Algarve” competition 2008, organised by the Algarve Regional Directorate of Agriculture and Fisheries.
Their wine is also marketed with the Lacóbriga label, (the name of the Roman settlement that preceded Lagos) the red which is described as having a “subtle floral touch” has won gold. Paula helps with marketing and distribution and bottles can be bought at the Lagos and Budens Intermarchés along with Spa and Baptista in Praia da Luz.
It was one of José´s other success stories, however, that led to my discovery of Herdade do Seromenho and enjoying their unique hospitality. The patriarch is National, European and World champion in Trap shooting. What is now the private dining area, was built as a room to display his impressive array of trophies. The family started using the space to entertain friends and family who then suggested to Paula she started to do it commercially. Teresa, a friend of Paula´s, has a catering company, Mimos da Teresa, so they started hosting evenings for paying guests.
They cook for up to 30 people and can design a menu to suit any budget which includes traditional Portuguese home cooking accompanied by their range of wines produced on the estate. Our group enjoyed a range of plates of tapas to start with, a choice of two delicious main courses and a chocolate mousse which can only be described as “dreamy” for €25 per head.
Herdade do Seromenho is one of Lagos´ best-kept secrets. An opportunity to experience wine, gastronomy and the beautiful Portuguese countryside encapsulated in a delicious and authentic bubble.
facebook.com/Herdade-dos-Seromenhos
961 380 579
herdadeseromenhos@gmail.com
